10 Bad Things We Do to Our Trees

“Loving a Tree to Death”

Staking and mulching newly planted trees seems to come naturally to even the beginning urban tree planter. Hey, both practices can be beneficial when done properly – but they also can be destructive when overdone or not done properly.
Staking and guying can make a tree grow taller, will anchor a tree in heavy winds and can protect trees from mechanical damage. Still, you must remember that some tree species need no staking at all and most trees need only minimal support for a short time. Staking can cause abnormal trunk growth, bark damage, girdling and cause a tree to become top heavy.
Mulching is a great practice but can also be done improperly. Never apply too much mulch around a tree. Mulch around the base of a tree that is over 5″ deep can be too much to the point of effecting root and bark function. Avoid mulching right next to the base of the tree trunk.

“Girdles Are Not For Trees”

Some think this is the best way to protect trees from the lawnmower or weed eater. However, they don’t realize their tree will be suffering a slow death form this “protection”. Most trees actually need protection from the tree owner.

It is just not a good practice to cover a tree’s trunk base with plastic or metal for protection from mechanical yard tools – especially on a permanent basis. Instead, think about using good mulch that will keep the tree’s base weed free and worry-free. In combination with a small amount of annual herbicide, the mulch you apply will conserve moisture as well as prevent weed competition.

“Avoid the Power Line Syndrome”

Power lines and trees just don’t mix. You can invest in a sapling and years of growth only to see the tree topped by an electric utility crew when the limbs touch their electric wires. You will get no sympathy from your local power company and can expect a fight when you ask them to spare your tree.

Utility right-of-ways is a tempting place to plant trees. They are usually open and clear. Please resist that temptation. You can get by only if you plant a small tree that has a projected lifetime height that is less than the height of the power wires.

“The Classic Tree Abuser”

A tree’s health often takes a back seat when problems and opportunities demand most of our time. I am as guilty as anyone and regret the times I’ve let things slide. But being a tree owner comes with a bit of responsibility which a few of us tend to put off to the point where the tree suffers permanent harm.

It is just as important to nurse a tree back to health as it is to plant and prepare it for a healthy future. Tree injury and improper pruning can lead to the death of a tree. Regular maintenance and proper attention are necessary when a tree sustains injury.

5. “Forcing Lethal Competition”

In many cases, trees cannot compete with an aggressive plant that can completely control all nutrients and light. Many plants can take advantage of their spreading habit (many are vines) and have the ability to overwhelm the most vigorous tree. You can plant spreading shrubs and vines but keep them away from your trees.

6. “Suffering in the Dark”
Some trees, depending on the species, can suffer from too much shade. Simply put, many conifers and hardwood trees have to be in full sunlight most of the day to survive. These trees are what foresters and botanists call “shade intolerant”. Trees that can take shade are shade tolerant.

7. “The Incompatible Neighbor”

Every tree has its own unique growth potential. How tall and wide a tree grows is not only determined by its health and the condition of the site, but the final size of a tree will also be determined by its genetic growth potential. Most good tree guides will give you height and spread information. You need to refer to that every time you plan to plant.

8. “Tree Roots Need More Respect”

A tree’s root system is the most vital organ on a tree. When roots fail to work properly the tree will eventually decline and die. A few common mistakes made by tree owners is to build or pave over roots, excavate on and around the tree trunk, park or store equipment and/or toxic material over the root zone.

9. “A Battle Between Tree and Property”

Poor tree placement and the lack of a landscape plan can harm both your tree and the property it battles to live with. Always avoid planting trees that will outgrow the space provided. Damage to building foundations, water, and utility lines and walkways are the usual causes of damage. In most cases, the tree has to be removed.

10. “Flag Poles and Fence Posts”

Trees can easily become convenient fence posts, light poles and ornament stand. Don’t be tempted into using a standing tree for purposes of utility and decoration by attaching them with permanent invasive anchors.

Question: Jimmie, I planted 12 different roses in my backyard last fall. I have yet to see any blooms. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your time. Julie P. in Prosper

Answer: Hi Julie, Here are some of the reasons that roses don’t bloom.

The rose plant is not getting enough sun. Roses need at least 6 hours of direct sun a day to perform well.
The rose needs more water. Roses like at least an inch of water per week during the growing season.
The plant has been given too much fertilizer, especially Nitrogen. Too much fertilizer can either damage the plant or cause it to grow extra leaves and stems at the expense of blooms.
The rose is a new plant. Don’t expect too much from a plant during its first year.
Rose is a once blooming variety. This means it will bloom only once a year in the late spring or early summer.
Soil pH is too low or too high. If the pH is not in the range of 6.0 to 6.8 (ideally 6.5) then nutrient uptake will be reduced, and the plant won’t be getting the food it needs to produce flowers.
Not enough foliage. If the bush doesn’t have adequate foliage, it can’t produce the food it needs to make new flowers. Inadequate foliage may result from disease or too little fertilizer. Hopefully, one of these you will be able to associate with your roses. Until next time…Happy Gardening!!!